Sunday, March 29, 2009

Razor Clam Digging

They say that back in the day along the Pacific Coastline, there were so many razor clams that they would practically jump out of the sand right into your mouth. And even today, they’re so plentiful that you can get your limit in only half an hour. At least that’s what one of my husband’s coworkers said. Then he offered to take us clam digging.

That was all the motivation we needed, razor clams make for some really good eating. The husband procured the licenses, and the next day we rolled out of bed at three o’clock in the morning, painfully early. It’s a three hour drive, and we had to get there by dawn in time for low tide.

It started raining as soon as we got there. Everything was grey—grey sky, grey rain, grey waves, just like a watercolor painting. It seemed peaceful and serene, except for the steady stream of cars driving on the sand and all of the people.


The beach was swarming with clam diggers, all excited about the first clam dig of the spring season.

As soon as it was light enough to see, we began combing the beach, looking for the telltale hole of the razor clam. Once you find the hole, you dig straight down for the clam. The razor clam will feel you coming and burrow straight down to get away, so you have to dig faster than he does. It’s easy work with a clam gun, which is essentially a tube that brings up a core sample of sand, and the clam comes along for the ride.


What I would’ve given for a pair of galoshes, I wanted to go out into the surf too. The razor clams live farther out than I realized, and I spent more time running away as the waves rolled in than digging.

So do you want to know about our impressive haul? We ended up with several bootfuls of sand and exactly zero razor clams. It was a complete bust, no beginner’s luck here. The tide didn’t go out far enough, so no breaded and pan-fried razor clams for dinner. But there’s another clam dig scheduled for April, and they’re promising an even lower low tide then. Until we meet again, razor clams!

Friday, March 27, 2009

In the Mood

Do you ever have one of those days when you don’t feel like making the thing you had planned for dinner? Or you’re just not hungry for it? Sure, fish chowder sounded good when you did your weekly meal planning and grocery shopping last Sunday. But not anymore—today, the very thought of seafood ruins your appetite. I have one of those days a lot. It drives my husband nuts, but how in the world am I supposed to guess what I’ll be in the mood for at some future date? If only I had a crystal ball. So what to do? Go out? No, that would blow the budget. And, in any case, all I know is what I’m not hungry for, not what I actually do want to eat. Then there’s the inevitable exchange…

Me: “What do you feel like having?”

Husband: “I don’t know, what do you feel like having?”

Me: Sigh. “I don’t know, I asked you first.”

Husband: “I don’t know. Fish chowder?” Belly grumbles.

And on and on.

Me, finally: “I know, there’s broccoli and cheddar.” There’s always broccoli and cheddar in the fridge, and there’s one thing I’m always, always in the mood for—Broccoli-Cheese Soup.


Broccoli-Cheese Soup
Printable Recipe

4 ounces (1 stick) unsalted butter
1 yellow onion, diced
3 cloves garlic, minced
½ cup all-purpose flour
2 quarts chicken broth
1 ¼ pounds broccoli, stalks and florets separated and chopped
½ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1 to 2 teaspoons Tabasco sauce
1 bay leaf
¼ teaspoon powdered mustard
Generous pinch cayenne pepper
8 ounces shredded sharp cheddar
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Heat a large, heavy pot over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking. Add the butter and onion and sauté for 4 to 5 minutes, or until soft. Add the garlic and sauté for another 30 seconds, or until fragrant. Stir in the flour. Stir in the broth and add the broccoli stalks, Worcestershire, Tabasco, bay leaf, mustard, and cayenne. Bring to a boil and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 16 to 18 minutes, or until the stalks are tender. Discard the bay leaf, remove from the heat, and puree with an immersion blender until smooth. Return to the heat and add the broccoli florets. Bring to a boil and simmer, stirring occasionally, for another 7 to 8 minutes, or until the florets are tender. Reduce the heat to low, stir in the cheddar, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Ladle into bowls and serve immediately.

Serves 6. Feel free to substitute vegetable broth or water if you prefer a vegetarian soup. If you don’t have an immersion blender, you can use a regular blender but remember: never fill a blender more than half way with hot liquid. This means you will need to blend the soup in batches and reheat it before adding the broccoli florets. Do not boil the soup once the cheddar has been added, or it will have a grainy texture.

Wednesday, March 25, 2009

A Favorite with a Twist

I just had a stroke of inspiration to add pureed roasted red bell peppers to my favorite quickie pasta dish. I’ll always love the original, but this one’s a keeper too!


Penne with Tomato-Pepper Sauce & Fresh Mozzarella
Printable Recipe

1/3 cup heavy cream
3 roasted red bell peppers
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
4 to 6 cloves garlic, minced
Generous pinch red chile flakes, optional
26 ounces strained tomatoes, preferably Pomì brand
3 to 4 large sprigs basil, plus chiffonaded leaves for serving
1 pound penne rigate
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
8 ounces fresh mozzarella, drained and diced
Grated Parmegiano-Reggiano, for serving

Combine the cream and bell peppers in a blender and blend until smooth. Heat a large, heavy sauté pan over medium-high heat until very hot but not smoking. Add the oil and swirl to coat the bottom of the pan. Add the garlic and chile flakes, if desired, and sauté for 30 seconds, or until fragrant. Add the bell pepper mixture, tomatoes, and basil sprigs. Bring to a boil and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 18 to 20 minutes, or until thickened and saucy.

Meanwhile, cook the penne in a large pot of boiling, salted water according to the package directions. Season the sauce to taste with salt and pepper and discard the basil sprigs. Drain the penne when it is al dente. Immediately add the penne to the sauce and toss to combine. Remove from the heat, let cool for a few minutes, and stir in the mozzarella. Arrange on individual plates, top with plenty of Parmegiano and basil, and serve immediately.

Makes 4 to 6 servings. The red bell peppers make this the reddest red sauce you’ve ever seen. It's a variation of another even simpler pasta dish I make; to try it, just omit the bell peppers but still add the cream. Fresh mozzarella balls come in a variety of sizes, and if you want a shortcut, look for pearlini, which are so small they don’t even need to be diced. Be sure to let the pasta cool a bit before adding the mozzarella, or it will melt into a gooey mess. It also helps if the mozzarella is cold when it goes in. This is a satisfying vegetarian dish, but my husband, who is decidedly not vegetarian, kept insisting that we should've added Italian sausage. I must admit that sounds good too.

Monday, March 23, 2009

Southwestern Cravings


It’s worth a trip to New Mexico just for the chiles. Trust me, I’ve done it. But since the 1,500 mile road trip can be impractical at times, here’s what I usually do when I’m jonesing for green chiles.


Green Chile Cheeseburgers
Printable Recipe

2 pounds 10% fat ground beef
Seasoned salt
Freshly ground black pepper
4 to 6 roasted Anaheim or New Mexico green chiles, julienned
4 slices sharp cheddar
4 hearty hamburger buns, split
Mayonnaise, for serving

Divide the ground beef into 4 equal portions and gently form each portion into a ball. Gently pat each ball into the shape of a hamburger patty, about 4 ½ inches across and slightly thinner in the center and thicker around the edges. Season the patties generously with seasoned salt and pepper and set aside at room temperature for about half an hour.

Heat the grill to high. Add the patties and cook without disturbing for 10 to 12 minutes, or until they release from the grate and are crusty and brown. Using a spatula, turn the patties, divide the chiles among them, and top each with 1 of the cheddar slices. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, covered, another 5 to 6 minutes, or until the desired doneness. The patties will be firm to the touch when they are medium-well. Remove the patties to a plate, tent with foil to keep warm, and allow to rest 5 minutes before serving.

Meanwhile, toast the buns, if desired, and spread with mayonnaise. Serve the patties on the buns immediately.

Serves 4. The heat of Anaheim and New Mexico green chiles can vary quite a bit.
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