Varenye

Varenye is Russian for fruit preserves. Varenye differs from American-style fruit preserves in that it's syrupy rather that spreadable. Though it can be made from any kind of fruit, in my family varenye was just one flavor: sour cherry.

You can find decent quality varenye at most Russian stores, but homemade is best.

Luckily, at the very end of cherry season I happened to score some u-pick sour cherries with which to make it.

But before I get to the recipe, the fall issue of Cooking Club magazine is out! Check out the "Weeknight Cook" column (on page 46) for four recipes by yours truly. My Seared Sirloin Steaks with Horseradish Cream Sauce, Spicy Baked Catfish with Garlic Butter, Smothered Pork Chops with Onion Gravy, and Spiced Chicken Drumsticks with Blood Orange, Red Onion and Parsley Salad are simple and delicious, even if I do say so myself.

Also, the fall Clark College class schedule just came out. I'll be teaching Baked Custards, Seared to Perfection, and The Season for Soup. Please join me in the kitchen! Current class listings can always be found in the Cooking Classes, Book Signings & Appearances sidebar on the right.

Sour Cherry Varenye
Printable Recipe

1 pound sour cherries, pitted
12 ounces sugar

Toss together the cherries and sugar in a small saucepan and let macerate, stirring occasionally, for 20 to 30 minutes, or until soft and juicy. Stir in 4 ounces of water. Bring to a boil and simmer, stirring occasionally and skimming off any scum that rises to the surface, for 1 hour to 1 hour and 15 minutes, or until thickened and slightly syrupy.

Makes about 1 ½ cups. Keeps for months tightly sealed in the refrigerator. For teatime in the Russian style, forgo the sugar and sweeten your hot tea with a spoonful of varenye.

Fresh from the Farmers Market

Farmers market season is back! Sadly, I missed the opening day, but it was for a good cause—I had a cooking class on potato gnocchi to teach. But let's just say nothing was going to keep me from the market a second weekend in a row. I dragged my husband out of bed early, in fact. After a long grey winter, strolling through the colorful displays of lush produce inspired me anew. Greens and root vegetables are the main offerings this early in the season. Tuscan kale, curly kale, rainbow chard, Savoy cabbage, leeks, celeriac, yellow potatoes, and eggs looked good, so I stocked up.


I had no thought as to what I would make with these ingredients, but I knew it would be good…

And it was. With the cabbage I made Russian cabbage rolls, a family recipe. Delicious.


Golubtsi
Printable Recipe

1 large head green or Savoy cabbage
3 tablespoons canola oil
1 yellow onion, julienned, plus ½ onion, grated
1 ½ pounds 85% lean ground beef
¼ cup long grain rice
¼ cup minced Italian parsley
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 ¾ cups strained tomatoes, preferably Pomì brand
1 green or red bell pepper, julienned
Generous pinch cayenne pepper

Using a paring knife, cut the core out of the cabbage. Cook the cabbage in a large pot of boiling, salted water for 6 to 8 minutes, or until tender. Transfer the cabbage to a large bowl of ice-cold water to stop the cooking process, reserving the cooking liquid, and then drain the cabbage thoroughly.

Heat a large, heavy pot over medium-low heat. Add the oil and the julienned onion and cook, stirring frequently, for 45 to 50 minutes, or until caramelized.*

Meanwhile, mix together the grated onion, ground beef, rice, 3 tablespoons of the parsley, and a generous pinch of salt and pepper in a large bowl. Carefully remove the outermost leaf of the cabbage and place it cupped side up on a work surface. Place about ¼ cup of the beef mixture toward the base of the cabbage leaf. Fold the base of the cabbage leaf over the beef mixture, tuck in either side, and roll all the way up. Make more cabbage rolls with the remaining cabbage leaves and filling in the same manner, using 2 overlapped cabbage leaves per roll as the leaves become smaller. As you work, arrange the cabbage rolls seam side down on a plate. Separate any remaining leaves from the heart of the cabbage.

Add the tomatoes, bell pepper, and cayenne to the pot. Line the pot with the remaining cabbage leaves and add the cabbage rolls seam side down. Add enough of the reserved cabbage cooking liquid to cover by an inch. Place a small upturned plate over the cabbage rolls, bring to a boil, and simmer, covered, for 45 minutes. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of parsley and simmer, covered, for another 10 to 15 minutes, or until the cabbage rolls are cooked through. Remove the plate, season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve immediately.

Serves 4. Serve with crusty bread. My mom always used green cabbage, but the Savoy cabbage at the market looked too good to pass up. Basmati rice is good in this recipe. The plate will keep the cabbage rolls completely submerged beneath the cooking liquid so that they cook evenly, and it will also keep them from unrolling as they simmer.

*For information on making and using caramelized onions and everything you ever wanted to know about searing, plus dozens of fabulous searing recipes, look for my book Seared to Perfection in stores now.

Egg Salad

Here's my favorite ingredient in another starring role…


But first, big thanks go out to The Kitchn for including my Cheesy Masa Cornbread in their Delicious Links and BlogEats for featuring my Semolina Crackers.

Mom's Egg Salad
Printable Recipe

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoon canola oil
1 large yellow onion, julienned
8 hard-cooked eggs
½ cup sliced green onions
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Heat a large, heavy sauté pan over medium-low heat. Add ¼ cup of the oil and the onion and cook, stirring frequently, for 55 minutes to 1 hour, or until caramelized.* Let cool.

In a large bowl, mash the eggs with a fork or potato masher until the desired texture. Toss in the caramelized onions along with their oil, green onions, and remaining 2 tablespoons of oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

Serves 4. This is my mother's version of Russian Jewish egg salad, but my baba, like any good Jewish grandmother, made it with chicken schmaltz and cracklings. Don't be shy with the black pepper—it really needs a generous quantity. Often used as a filling for baked Russian pastries called pirozhki.

*For information on making and using caramelized onions and everything you ever wanted to know about searing, plus dozens of fabulous searing recipes, look for my book Seared to Perfection in stores now.

Radish

In Russian you call someone “rediska”, which means radish, when they’re naughty and misbehaving. At least that’s what my mother does. I never could understand why, but perhaps it’s because radishes are sharp and peppery. Anyway, being called a radish doesn’t hurt my feelings any because I happen to love radishes.

In other news, I’m excited to announce that my first cookbook Seared to Perfection: The Simple Art of Sealing in Flavor is now available for preorder on Amazon! Hooray! It comes out in October, and I cannot wait to hold a copy in my hands.


Radish & Cucumber Salad
Printable Recipe

12 ounces radishes, cut in half lengthwise and thinly sliced
2/3 English cucumber, peeled, cut in half lengthwise, and thinly sliced
2/3 cup sliced green onions
1 tablespoon minced fresh dill, optional
½ cup sour cream
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Toss together the radishes, cucumber, green onions, dill, if desired, and sour cream in a large bowl and season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer to a serving bowl and serve immediately.

Serves 4 as a side dish. I grew up eating this cool and refreshing salad, and as far as I can tell, it’s a Russian classic. My mother makes it with Kirby cucumbers, but I usually use English cucumbers because they’re much easier to find. And Mom never used the dill, though it is a common addition. I can’t remember what Mom served this with, and she’s being a radish and not answering her phone right now so I can’t ask, but I think it’s great on the side with roast chicken. One large bunch of radishes is usually enough to make the recipe.

UPDATE: This post has been selected as a winner of Beet ‘n Squash YOU! Battle Radish.

Russian Store

Scattered here and there in the strip malls of every major metropolitan area are Russian stores. Maybe you’ve never been to one. You may not understand their signs.


You may not even notice them at all.


The storefronts tend to be rather nondescript and unassuming. But if you pay attention, you’re certain to find one. It’s worth looking, for these Russian markets and delis hold many tasty treasures within.

The meat case alone makes the trip worthwhile.


It seems to go on and on forever.


It’s loaded with an endless variety of cold cuts, hams, bacon, smoked sausages, dried sausages, and pork in every guise. Happily, the delicious sausages, with names like Maskoska, Estonska, Moldavska, and hunter’s, are quite affordable for any budget.

Another case holds a rainbow of pickled vegetables.


The olives, wild mushrooms, green tomatoes, sour apples, salted cabbage, and various salads are just like homemade. Bulgarian, French, and Greek fetas are sold by the pound. All sorts of other cheeses are available as well.


Salted and cold smoked fish are plentiful.


Choose from mackerel, whitefish, whiting, salmon, vobla, and more. And, I’ll let you in on a little secret, Russian markets are always a great source for caviar, both black and red.

The Russian store’s pastries and cakes will, no doubt, tempt you.


And the bread is brought in fresh daily.


If you make it in before noon, you may be able to get some while it’s still warm.

Sounds fabulous, doesn’t it? Well, that’s just the deli counter. Let me tell you about the rest of the store. The selection of canned goods is astounding.


There are aisles full of jarred vegetables, fruits, pickles, and preserves.


The pitted sour cherries in light syrup are particularly delicious.


They’re perfect with a cup of hot tea. Of course, you can pick up your tea at the Russian store too.


In the freezer section, you’ll find ready-to-cook stuffed dumplings called pelimeni and vareniki.


Last, but certainly not least, every good Russian store will stock a fantastic assortment of sweets and candy.


Bin after bin of yummy chocolate, wafer, fruit, nut, and marshmallow candies with fun and whimsical names like bird’s milk, clumsy bear, cow, lobster tail, and squirrel and with colorful, shiny wrappers are guaranteed to make you feel like a kid again.

A Russian store has all this to offer, and lots more. I crave this kind of food, I grew up eating it. Find the Russian store near your neighborhood, explore and taste your way through it, and I’m sure you’ll love it too.

Anoush Deli (6808 NE Fourth Plain, Vancouver, Washington, 360-693-4359) happens to be my personal favorite Russian store, and my family shops at Euro Deli Too (6832 Coit Road, Plano, Texas, 972-312-0244).

Salted Cabbage

We eat something in my family we call Salted Cabbage. At least that’s what we call it in Russian, it sounds a little funny when I translate it to English. It’s pretty much like sauerkraut but it’s less fermented and it has carrots in it. And since I just got a brand new pickling crock, I had to make some. Also, I finally got my hands on some elusive white cabbage. You can find green cabbage anywhere, but all of the cooks in my family warned me, you can only make salted cabbage with white cabbage.

This was my very first batch of Salted Cabbage. Well, I did make some a few months ago under the strict supervision of my mother, but that doesn’t count. This was my first batch by myself.


It turned out great, very crunchy and lightly sour. I can say that now. But the “aroma” in the pantry over the last few days, let’s just say it was not so great.

Salted Cabbage
Printable Recipe

3 ½ pounds shredded white cabbage
1 carrot, shredded
2 small bay leaves, lightly crushed
10 allspice berries
12 black peppercorns
2 ½ tablespoons kosher salt

Combine all of the ingredients in a large bowl. Mash with your hands, a sauerkraut stomper, or potato masher until the cabbage wilts and exudes juice. Transfer to a pickling crock, packing it in as tightly as possible. Apply a weight, making sure that all of the cabbage is completely submerged beneath the brine. Cover loosely and let ferment at room temperature for 4 to 6 days, or until the desired sourness.

Makes about 2 quarts. If, for some reason, mashing the cabbage with the salt does not create enough liquid to completely cover the cabbage once it’s packed into the crock, you can make additional brine. Simply boil some water, add kosher salt until it tastes slightly salty, and let cool. Add just enough to completely cover the cabbage. If any white matter appears on the surface during fermentation, do not be alarmed; it’s perfectly harmless yeast. Just skim it off. Fermentation time depends on the ambient temperature, so it may take 4 days in the summer and as long as 6 days in the winter. Keeps for weeks tightly sealed in the refrigerator. If you don’t have a pickling crock with a weight, use a glass or stoneware jar that’s large enough to accommodate the cabbage plus the bubbling of fermentation. Weigh the cabbage down with a plate topped with a tightly sealed jar filled with water. Look for white cabbage in Asian markets. Salted Cabbage is yummy straight up, and it’s great anywhere you might want a pickle, like on a sandwich or in potato salad.