Cooking Well

Cooking well means…
You will never go hungry.
You might be labeled a "foodie".
The kitchen is your studio and food is your medium.
You'll always find the way to a man's (or woman's) heart.
You can see beauty in a potato.
Going to market is your idea of fun.
You share a connection with the earth and the seasons.
Your mantra is a dish is only as good as the ingredients you put into it.
You have a weakness for sharp cutlery.
And maybe fine cookware too.
You understand salt.
You revere the egg.
And can transform it in countless ways.
Your friends will always accept your dinner invitations.
But they might be afraid to invite you over for dinner. No matter how appreciative you may be.
You taste as you cook.
And clean as you go.
You have a strong opinion about certain cooking shows. (You know what I mean.)
It might be hard to get into your skinny jeans.
You can find inspiration in a recipe.
But you don't have to follow it.
Someone else should volunteer to do the dishes.
You use all your senses.
You pay attention to the details.
And you follow your instincts.
You can stand the heat.
You transform necessity into pleasure.
You have a sensual side.
You know the finer things in life.
You season with love.
Sharing is in your nature.
You bring people together.
You and your loved ones will always be nourished and comforted, body and soul.
Everything.


Coconut Shrimp with Sweet Habanero Sauce
Printable Recipe

½ cup rice vinegar
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
2 habaneros
2 cloves garlic, grated
3 tablespoons fish sauce
1 large egg
1 cup panko breadcrumbs
1 cup shredded coconut
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 ½ pounds jumbo shrimp (16/20 count), peeled and deveined
¼ cup all-purpose flour
Canola oil, for frying

Combine the rice vinegar, sugar, habaneros, and garlic in a blender and blend until smooth. Transfer to a small saucepan, bring to a boil, and simmer for 8 to 10 minutes, or until thickened and slightly syrupy. Remove from the heat and stir in the fish sauce. Let cool to room temperature.

Whisk together the egg and 2 tablespoons of water in a large, shallow dish. Mix together the panko, coconut, and a generous pinch of salt and pepper in another large, shallow dish. Season the shrimp generously with salt and pepper. Dip each shrimp into the flour to coat and shake off any excess, then into the egg wash, and then into the panko mixture to coat, patting so that it adheres. Arrange the shrimp in a single layer on a baking tray and let rest for about 15 minutes.

Add enough oil to a large, heavy pot to come to a depth of 2 inches. Heat the oil to 375°F. Add half of the shrimp and fry for 2 to 3 minutes, or until golden brown. Using a skimmer, remove to a paper towel-lined baking tray and immediately season to taste with salt. Fry the remaining shrimp in the same manner. Arrange the shrimp on individual plates and serve immediately with the habanero sauce.

Serves 4. When frying, be sure to use a pot that's large enough to accommodate the displacement of the oil from the shrimp and also the bubbling of the oil.

Salsa Series: Roasted Tomato-Jalapeno Salsa

This is the sixth post in a series on salsas.

Salsa isn’t just for corn chips any more. This was my sudden mind-blowing, earth-shattering realization. It came way back during my college days after a working interview at one very famous Southwestern restaurant. They fed me dinner—a grilled tenderloin steak smothered in a smokey salsa—in exchange for my night’s work. I had only ever eaten steak plain, and my life would never be the same. I got the job. But more importantly, I opened my eyes to the possibilities of salsa.

Salsas, whether they’re made from chiles, tomatoes, tomatillos, avocados, or fruit, are an integral part of Mexican and Southwestern cuisines. They vary from mild to medium to spicy, and they can be served hot, at room temperature, or cold. Salsas can function as either dip or sauce (in fact, salsa is Spanish for sauce), and they are the perfect accompaniment to everything from eggs to tacos to rice and beans. They can transform a simple grilled steak, pork chop, chicken breast, fish fillet, or even veggie into a spectacular meal. It’s no wonder that salsa has overtaken ketchup as the most popular condiment in the U.S.

But while I’m singing the praises of salsa, I want to make clear that I mean homemade, from-scratch salsa. Homemade salsa is vibrant and fresh and delicious and healthy, and it can perk up anything you put it on. (In comparison, the store-bought stuff is appallingly expensive and completely tasteless.) And if there’s a batch in the fridge, it’s sure to inspire many amazing meals.


Roasted Tomato-Jalapeno Salsa
Printable Recipe

1 small yellow onion, halved
4 jalapenos
8 large Roma tomatoes
½ bunch cilantro, stems trimmed
Juice of 1 lime
Kosher salt

Preheat the broiler. Arrange the onion and jalapenos on a foil-lined baking tray and broil for 7 to 8 minutes, or until the onion is lightly charred and the skin of the jalapenos is charred and blistered. Using tongs, turn the onion and jalapenos and broil another 6 to 7 minutes, or until the onion is lightly charred and the skin of the jalapenos is charred and blistered and the flesh is soft. Transfer the onion and jalapenos to a cutting board and let cool to room temperature.

Meanwhile, arrange the tomatoes on the baking tray and broil for 14 to 16 minutes, or until the skin is charred and blistered. Using tongs, give the tomatoes a third of a turn and broil 6 to 7 minutes more, or until the skin is charred and blistered. Give the tomatoes a final third of a turn and continue to broil another 6 to 7 minutes, or until the skin is charred and blistered and the flesh is soft. Let cool to room temperature.

Chop the onion and stem and seed the jalapenos. Combine the onion, jalapenos, tomatoes, cilantro, and lime juice in a blender and blend until smooth. Season to taste with salt.

Makes about 5 cups. Heat level: medium/hot. If you like it hotter, add more jalapenos. This is like the salsa you'd find at any good Tex-Mex restaurant, and it's great on everything from chips to quesadillas and fajitas to breakfast tacos. If you prefer a smokier flavor, grill the onion, jalapenos, and tomatoes instead of broiling them. Keeps for several days tightly sealed in the refrigerator and freezes well. Serve warm or at room temperature.

More salsa recipes are available here.

Now, if you’re going to have great homemade salsa, you probably want some of this Guacamole to go with it.

Salsa Series: Pico de Gallo

Just in time for Cinco de Mayo, this is the fifth post in a series on salsas.

Salsa isn’t just for corn chips any more. This was my sudden mind-blowing, earth-shattering realization. It came way back during my college days after a working interview at one very famous Southwestern restaurant. They fed me dinner—a grilled tenderloin steak smothered in a smokey salsa—in exchange for my night’s work. I had only ever eaten steak plain, and my life would never be the same. I got the job. But more importantly, I opened my eyes to the possibilities of salsa.

Salsas, whether they’re made from chiles, tomatoes, tomatillos, avocados, or fruit, are an integral part of Mexican and Southwestern cuisines. They vary from mild to medium to spicy, and they can be served hot, at room temperature, or cold. Salsas can function as either dip or sauce (in fact, salsa is Spanish for sauce), and they are the perfect accompaniment to everything from eggs to tacos to rice and beans. They can transform a simple grilled steak, pork chop, chicken breast, fish fillet, or even veggie into a spectacular meal. It’s no wonder that salsa has overtaken ketchup as the most popular condiment in the U.S.

But while I’m singing the praises of salsa, I want to make clear that I mean homemade, from-scratch salsa. Homemade salsa is vibrant and fresh and delicious and healthy, and it can perk up anything you put it on. (In comparison, the store-bought stuff is appallingly expensive and completely tasteless.) And if there’s a batch in the fridge, it’s sure to inspire many amazing meals.


Pico de Gallo
Printable Recipe

4 Roma tomatoes, diced
½ small yellow onion, diced
2 jalapenos, seeded and minced
¼ cup minced cilantro
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
Kosher salt

Toss together the tomatoes, onion, jalapenos, cilantro, and lime juice in a medium bowl and season to taste with salt.

Makes a generous 2 cups. A fresh, uncooked salsa also known as salsa fresca. Heat level: mild, depending on the jalapenos. If you like it hotter, use more jalapenos or substitute Serranos. The riper the tomatoes, the better. This ubiquitous salsa is good with everything from tortilla chips to tacos, fajitas, and quesadillas to grilled meat and seafood, and it adds zest to black beans, Mexican Rice, egg dishes, and more. Pico de Gallo is best a couple of hours after it’s made, once the flavors have had time to mingle. Keeps for a day or two tightly sealed in the refrigerator. Serve at room temperature.

More salsa recipes are available here.

Now, if you’re going to have great homemade salsa, you probably want some of this Guacamole to go with it.

Salsa Series: Salsa Verde

This is the fourth post in a series on salsas.

Salsa isn’t just for corn chips any more. This was my sudden mind-blowing, earth-shattering realization. It came way back during my college days after a working interview at one very famous Southwestern restaurant. They fed me dinner—a grilled tenderloin steak smothered in a smokey salsa—in exchange for my night’s work. I had only ever eaten steak plain, and my life would never be the same. I got the job. But more importantly, I opened my eyes to the possibilities of salsa.

Salsas, whether they’re made from chiles, tomatoes, tomatillos, avocados, or fruit, are an integral part of Mexican and Southwestern cuisines. They vary from mild to medium to spicy, and they can be served hot, at room temperature, or cold. Salsas can function as either dip or sauce (in fact, salsa is Spanish for sauce), and they are the perfect accompaniment to everything from eggs to tacos to rice and beans. They can transform a simple grilled steak, pork chop, chicken breast, fish fillet, or even veggie into a spectacular meal. It’s no wonder that salsa has overtaken ketchup as the most popular condiment in the U.S.

But while I’m singing the praises of salsa, I want to make clear that I mean homemade, from-scratch salsa. Homemade salsa is vibrant and fresh and delicious and healthy, and it can perk up anything you put it on. (In comparison, the store-bought stuff is appallingly expensive and completely tasteless.) And if there’s a batch in the fridge, it’s sure to inspire many amazing meals.


Salsa Verde
Printable Recipe

1 ¼ pounds tomatillos
3 to 4 Serrano chiles
1 yellow onion, quartered
1 bunch cilantro, stems trimmed
½ teaspoon ground cumin
Juice of 1 lime
Kosher salt

Combine the tomatillos and Serranos in a medium pot and add enough water to cover by several inches. Bring to a boil and simmer for 6 to 7 minutes, or until the tomatillos are soft. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the tomatillos and Serranos to a plate. Let rest for about 15 minutes, or until just cool enough to handle, and then stem the Serranos.

Combine the tomatillos, Serranos, onion, cilantro, cumin, and lime juice in a blender and blend until smooth. Season to taste with salt.

Makes 1 generous quart. Heat level: medium/hot. If you like it hotter, use more Serranos. This salsa is delicious with pork, chicken, and seafood, and it’s especially good as a sauce for chicken and cheese enchiladas. Keeps for several days tightly sealed in the refrigerator and freezes well. Serve warm or at room temperature.


More salsa recipes are available here.

Now, if you’re going to have great homemade salsa, you probably want some of this Guacamole to go with it.

Eating in Texas

How to fit four dinners into just three nights? This is the sort of problem that confronts us when I get together with my family in Texas. I just went to see them. During my week-and-a-half trip, I spent nearly every minute cooking with them and for them and eating. It’s all about food, that’s the way it works in my family.

This visit may have been the most indulgent ever. It began with my parents taking me out for crawfish bisque and crawfish po’ boys to remedy the crawfish deficiency I suffer from here in the Pacific Northwest. Then it continued with a sort of Russian boiled meat dumpling called pelimeni, seafood pasta with two-and-a-half pounds of shrimp, scallops, and crab, rib-eye steaks (grilled on my father’s gleaming new Weber, which can reach temperatures so hot it can give Hell a run for its money) with garlic butter and gorgonzola butter, three rotisserie chickens (also cooked to succulent, crispy-skinned perfection on said grill), eleven pounds of mussels in saffron broth, cheesecake baked by my little brother, veal parmigiana and homemade extruded bucatini with red sauce, biscuits and sausage gravy, and a smattering of gorgonzola dolce, very ripe Brie, Roquefort, truffle salami, and wine. The visit culminated in a big pot of Texas chili and homemade cheese fries (a joint effort with my little brother and a bonding experience indeed). So much food, so little time.


It’s been a mere twenty-four hours since I left them, and I miss the fam already. I miss eating like that too.

Real Texas Chili
Printable Recipe

4 ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded
4 pasilla chiles, stemmed and seeded
¼ cup canola oil
3 pounds ground beef chuck, preferably chili grind
2 yellow onions, diced
1 green bell pepper, diced
1 red bell pepper, diced
1 poblano, diced
3 jalapenos, seeded and minced
10 to 12 cloves garlic, minced
½ cup tomato paste
¼ cup mild New Mexico chile powder
2 tablespoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon Mexican oregano
¼ to ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
½ cup beer, preferably a pale ale
1 14 ½-ounce can diced tomatoes, drained
1 quart beef broth
Juice of 1 lime
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Heat a medium, heavy sauté pan or griddle over medium heat until very hot but not smoking. Add 2 of the chiles and toast, pressing down on them firmly with a spatula, for 10 to 15 seconds, or until golden brown. Turn the chiles and continue to toast, pressing down on them firmly with the spatula, another 10 to 15 seconds, or until fragrant, golden brown, and pliable. Remove the toasted chiles to a bowl and toast the remaining chiles in the same manner. Combine the chiles and 2 cups boiling water in a medium bowl and let soak for 10 to 12 minutes, or until rehydrated. Transfer to a blender and blend until smooth. Strain through a fine mesh sieve.

Heat a large, heavy pot over high heat until very hot but not smoking. Add the oil and swirl to coat the bottom of the pot. Add half of the beef and cook for 7 to 8 minutes, tossing about 2 times, until crusty and brown in spots.* Using a slotted spoon, remove the beef to a plate. Sear the remaining beef in the same manner and set aside. Reduce the heat to medium, add the onions, and sauté for 8 to 9 minutes, or until soft. Add the bell peppers, poblano, and jalapenos and sauté for another 6 to 7 minutes, or until soft. Add the garlic, tomato paste, chile powder, cumin, Mexican oregano, and cayenne and sauté 1 to 2 minutes more, or until fragrant. Add the beer and simmer for a minute or so, scraping up the brown bits from the bottom of the pan with a heat-proof spatula. Return the beef to the pot and add the tomatoes, broth, and chile puree. Bring to a boil and simmer for about 2 hours, or until thickened and saucy and the flavors come together. Remove from the heat and skim off any fat from the surface of the chili. Stir in the lime juice and season to taste with salt and pepper. Ladle into bowls and serve immediately.

Serves 8 to 10. A true bowl of red. Chili grind is coarsely ground beef and makes for a chunkier chili than regular ground beef. New Mexico chile powder brings a distinct flavor to the chili, but if you can’t find it, substitute another mild pure chile powder such as ancho or pasilla. (Also keep in mind that most “chile powders” marketed in stores are actually blends of chile and other spices such as cumin, garlic, oregano, cinnamon, cloves, and salt. These are to be avoided.) Dried Mexican oregano, which has a unique floral character, can be found at some gourmet grocers and (usually for less than a dollar) at any Mexican market. If you can’t find it, just omit it from the recipe; don’t substitute common oregano. This chili is pleasantly spicy but not too hot, at least in my opinion. If you like it hotter, add more cayenne pepper. Add some chipotle if you like a smokey flavor. The chili is perfect all by itself, but it can be topped with diced onions, sour cream, and/or shredded cheddar. And in case you’re wondering, real chili does not have beans.


*Searing the beef in this manner adds tons of flavor to the finished dish. For everything you ever wanted to know about searing, plus dozens of fabulous searing recipes, look for my book Seared to Perfection in stores in the fall of 2010.

Salsa Series: Fire Roasted Salsa

This is the third post in a series on salsas.

Salsa isn’t just for corn chips any more. This was my sudden mind-blowing, earth-shattering realization. It came way back during my college days after a working interview at one very famous Southwestern restaurant. They fed me dinner—a grilled tenderloin steak smothered in a smokey salsa (the very one, in fact, that inspired me to create this Fire Roasted Salsa recipe)—in exchange for my night’s work. I had only ever eaten steak plain, and my life would never be the same. I got the job. But more importantly, I opened my eyes to the possibilities of salsa.

Salsas, whether they’re made from chiles, tomatoes, tomatillos, avocados, or fruit, are an integral part of Mexican and Southwestern cuisines. They vary from mild to medium to spicy, and they can be served hot, at room temperature, or cold. Salsas can function as either dip or sauce (in fact, salsa is Spanish for sauce), and they are the perfect accompaniment to everything from eggs to tacos to rice and beans. They can transform a simple grilled steak, pork chop, chicken breast, fish fillet, or even veggie into a spectacular meal. It’s no wonder that salsa has overtaken ketchup as the most popular condiment in the U.S.

But while I’m singing the praises of salsa, I want to make clear that I mean homemade, from-scratch salsa. Homemade salsa is vibrant and fresh and delicious and healthy, and it can perk up anything you put it on. (In comparison, the store-bought stuff is appallingly expensive and completely tasteless.) And if there’s a batch in the fridge, it’s sure to inspire many amazing meals.


Fire Roasted Salsa
Printable Recipe

12 large Roma tomatoes
1 yellow onion, quartered
6 chipotles en adobo
1 bunch cilantro, stems trimmed
¼ teaspoon ground cumin
Juice of 2 limes
Kosher salt

Preheat the broiler. Arrange the tomatoes on a foil-lined baking tray and broil for 14 to 16 minutes, or until the skin is charred and blistered. Using tongs, give the tomatoes a third of a turn and broil 6 to 7 minutes more, or until the skin is charred and blistered. Give the tomatoes a final third of a turn and continue to broil another 6 to 7 minutes, or until the skin is charred and blistered and the flesh is soft. Let cool to room temperature and skin and seed the tomatoes.

Combine the tomatoes, onion, chipotles, cilantro, cumin, and lime juice in a blender and blend until smooth. Season to taste with salt.

Makes about 1 ½ quarts. Heat level: medium/hot. If you like it hotter, add more chipotles. This smokey salsa is great on everything from chips to quesadillas and fajitas to breakfast tacos. And it’s particularly delicious served as a sauce with grilled rib-eye steaks. If you prefer an even smokier flavor, grill the tomatoes instead of broiling them. It’s not absolutely necessary to peel and seed the tomatoes, though it does give the salsa a nicer texture. Keeps for several days tightly sealed in the refrigerator and freezes well. Serve warm or at room temperature.


More salsa recipes are available here.

Now, if you’re going to have great homemade salsa, you probably want some of this Guacamole to go with it.

Salsa Series: Avocado Salsa

This is the second post in a series on salsas.

Salsa isn’t just for corn chips any more. This was my sudden mind-blowing, earth-shattering realization. It came way back during my college days after a working interview at one very famous Southwestern restaurant. They fed me dinner—a grilled tenderloin steak smothered in a smokey salsa—in exchange for my night’s work. I had only ever eaten steak plain, and my life would never be the same. I got the job. But more importantly, I opened my eyes to the possibilities of salsa.

Salsas, whether they’re made from chiles, tomatoes, tomatillos, avocados, or fruit, are an integral part of Mexican and Southwestern cuisines. They vary from mild to medium to spicy, and they can be served hot, at room temperature, or cold. Salsas can function as either dip or sauce (in fact, salsa is Spanish for sauce), and they are the perfect accompaniment to everything from eggs to tacos to rice and beans. They can transform a simple grilled steak, pork chop, chicken breast, fish fillet, or even veggie into a spectacular meal. It’s no wonder that salsa has overtaken ketchup as the most popular condiment in the U.S.

But while I’m singing the praises of salsa, I want to make clear that I mean homemade, from-scratch salsa. Homemade salsa is vibrant and fresh and delicious and healthy, and it can perk up anything you put it on. (In comparison, the store-bought stuff is appallingly expensive and completely tasteless.) And if there’s a batch in the fridge, it’s sure to inspire many amazing meals.


Avocado Salsa
Printable Recipe

2 ripe Hass avocados
6 Serrano chiles, seeded and diced
¾ cup packed cilantro
2 cups water
3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
Kosher salt

Halve, pit, and peel the avocados. Combine the avocados, Serranos, cilantro, water, and lime juice in a blender and blend until smooth. Season to taste with salt.

Makes about 3 ½ cups. Heat level: mild. If you like it hotter, leave the seeds in some or all of the Serranos. This light and refreshing salsa is especially good with seafood. Keeps for a day or two tightly sealed in the refrigerator—browning is only slight. Serve at room temperature.


More salsa recipes are available here.

Salsa Series: Guajillo Salsa

This is the first post in a series on salsas.

Salsa isn’t just for corn chips any more. This was my sudden mind-blowing, earth-shattering realization. It came way back during my college days after a working interview at one very famous Southwestern restaurant. They fed me dinner—a grilled tenderloin steak smothered in a smokey salsa—in exchange for my night’s work. I had only ever eaten steak plain, and my life would never be the same. I got the job. But more importantly, I opened my eyes to the possibilities of salsa.

Salsas, whether they’re made from chiles, tomatoes, tomatillos, avocados, or fruit, are an integral part of Mexican and Southwestern cuisines. They vary from mild to medium to spicy, and they can be served hot, at room temperature, or cold. Salsas can function as either dip or sauce (in fact, salsa is Spanish for sauce), and they are the perfect accompaniment to everything from eggs to tacos to rice and beans. They can transform a simple grilled steak, pork chop, chicken breast, fish fillet, or even veggie into a spectacular meal. It’s no wonder that salsa has overtaken ketchup as the most popular condiment in the U.S.

But while I’m singing the praises of salsa, I want to make clear that I mean homemade, from-scratch salsa. Homemade salsa is vibrant and fresh and delicious and healthy, and it can perk up anything you put it on. (In comparison, the store-bought stuff is appallingly expensive and completely tasteless.) And if there’s a batch in the fridge, it’s sure to inspire many amazing meals.


Guajillo Salsa
Printable Recipe

8 guajillo chiles, stemmed and seeded
1 to 2 cloves garlic, minced
1 ¾ cups water
3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
Kosher salt

Heat a medium, heavy sauté pan or griddle over medium heat until very hot but not smoking. Add 2 of the chiles and toast, pressing down on them firmly with a spatula, for 10 to 15 seconds, or until golden brown. Turn the chiles and continue to toast, pressing down on them firmly with the spatula, another 10 to 15 seconds, or until fragrant, golden brown, and pliable. Remove the toasted chiles to a bowl and toast the remaining chiles in the same manner.

Combine the chiles, garlic, water, and lime juice in a blender and blend until smooth. Season to taste with salt.

Makes about 2 ¼ cups. Heat level: medium. This salsa is good on everything from chips to meat to seafood. It’s especially fantastic with cheesy dishes. Guajillos are a type of dried chile distinguishable by their red color, elongated shape, and smooth skin. Wear gloves when handling chiles. To stem and seed a dried chile, simply pop off the stem and shake out as many of the seeds as possible from the stem end. Toast the chiles carefully so that they don’t burn. Like most salsas, this one’s best the day after it’s made, once the flavors have had time to mingle. Keeps for several days tightly sealed in the refrigerator. Serve at room temperature.


More salsa recipes are available here.

Now, if you’re going to have great homemade salsa, you probably want some of this Guacamole to go with it.

Southwestern Cravings

It’s worth a trip to New Mexico just for the chiles. Trust me, I’ve done it. But since the 1,500 mile road trip can be impractical at times, here’s what I usually do when I’m jonesing for green chiles.


Green Chile Cheeseburgers
Printable Recipe

2 pounds 10% fat ground beef
Seasoned salt
Freshly ground black pepper
4 to 6 roasted Anaheim or New Mexico green chiles, julienned
4 slices sharp cheddar
4 hearty hamburger buns, split
Mayonnaise, for serving

Divide the ground beef into 4 equal portions and gently form each portion into a ball. Gently pat each ball into the shape of a hamburger patty, about 4 ½ inches across and slightly thinner in the center and thicker around the edges. Season the patties generously with seasoned salt and pepper and set aside at room temperature for about half an hour.

Heat the grill to high. Add the patties and cook without disturbing for 10 to 12 minutes, or until they release from the grate and are crusty and brown. Using a spatula, turn the patties, divide the chiles among them, and top each with 1 of the cheddar slices. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, covered, another 5 to 6 minutes, or until the desired doneness. The patties will be firm to the touch when they are medium-well. Remove the patties to a plate, tent with foil to keep warm, and allow to rest 5 minutes before serving.

Meanwhile, toast the buns, if desired, and spread with mayonnaise. Serve the patties on the buns immediately.

Serves 4. The heat of Anaheim and New Mexico green chiles can vary quite a bit.