The Flavors of Celery

Celery is vastly underappreciated. Sure, it's an ingredient in mirepoix, but how often is it the star of the show, the feature flavor? I, for one, love its juicy crunch and bitter herbaceousness. Here's a dish that is a study in the flavor of celery. It was inspired by celeriac from the farmers market.

I added lovage from the garden and celery seeds for a variety of different celery flavor notes.

But before I get to the recipe, I'd like to invite you to visit my new photography portfolio. I've added a link to it in the sidebar on the right. It's a work in progress, but I hope you like it!

Celeriac Soup with Seared Scallops & Lovage Oil*
Printable Recipe

1 celeriac, diced
1 leek, pale parts only, cut in half lengthwise and sliced
1 small parsnip, diced
1 bay leaf
1 sprig thyme
1 sprig Italian parsley
2 tablespoons packed lovage leaves
¼ cup plus 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
12 large sea scallops (about 1 pound), feet removed
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon celery seeds, ground
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

Combine the celeriac, leek, parsnip, bay leaf, thyme, parsley, and 2 quarts water in a large, heavy pot. Bring to a boil and simmer for 45 to 50 minutes, or until the celeriac is tender.

Meanwhile, combine the lovage and ¼ cup of the oil in a blender and blend until smooth. Gently pat the scallops dry with paper towels. Season them generously with salt and pepper, sprinkle with the celery seed, and set aside at room temperature for about half an hour.

Strain the lovage oil through a fine mesh sieve. Heat a large, heavy sauté pan over high heat until very hot but not smoking. Add the remaining 3 tablespoons of oil and swirl to coat the bottom of the pan. Add the scallops and cook without disturbing for 2 to 3 minutes, or until they release from the pan and are crusty and brown. Using tongs, turn the scallops and continue to cook over high heat another 1 to 2 minutes, or until the desired doneness. Moisture will just begin to accumulate on the surface of the scallops when they are medium-rare. Remove the scallops to a plate and tent with foil to keep warm.

Discard the bay leaf, thyme sprig, and parsley sprig from the soup, remove from the heat, and puree with an immersion blender until smooth. Strain through a fine mesh sieve. Add the lemon juice and season to taste with salt and pepper. Arrange the scallops in shallow individual bowls, divide the soup among them, being careful not to pour it directly over the scallops, and drizzle with the lovage oil. Serve immediately.

Serves 4 to 6. Celeriac is also known as celery root. Leeks tend to be very dirty, so rinse them thoroughly after you chop them. Celery leaves can be used if lovage leaves are unavailable. If you don’t have an immersion blender, you can use a regular blender but remember: never fill a blender more than half way with hot liquid. This means you will need to blend the soup in batches and reheat it before serving.

*For everything you ever wanted to know about searing, plus dozens of fabulous searing recipes, look for my book Seared to Perfection in stores now.

Long-Distance Relationship

Have you ever traveled to a distant land and fallen in love? It happened to me once. At first it was just a fling, a frivolous affair, but when I went back again, it became serious. I fell in love in Paris, with Paris. Madly, deeply, head over heals in love.

Now, long after the first passionate throes have faded into sweet memories, I still long for Paris. There is a yearning, an aching in my heart because I cannot visit my love.

Alas, I must settle on a long-distance relationship. So here's how I keep the romance alive…


French Onion Soup
Printable Recipe

4 1 ½-inch thick slices baguette
6 tablespoons (¾ stick) unsalted butter
4 large yellow onions, julienned
¼ cup red wine
2 tablespoons ruby port
1 ½ quarts beef broth
1 bay leaf
1 sprig thyme
1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
½ pound shredded Gruyère

Preheat the oven to 375˚F. Arrange the baguette slices in a single layer on a baking tray and bake for 15 to 20 minutes, or until dry. Let cool.

Heat a large, heavy pot over medium-low heat. Add the butter and onions and cook, stirring frequently, for 1 hour to 1 hour and 15 minutes, or until caramelized.* Add the wine and port and simmer for a minute or so, scraping up the brown bits from the bottom of the pot with a heat-proof spatula. Add the broth, bay leaf, and thyme. Bring to a boil and simmer for 40 to 45 minutes, or until the flavors come together. Discard the bay leaf and thyme sprig. Stir in the balsamic vinegar and season to taste with salt and pepper. Preheat the broiler. Divide the soup among 4 oven-proof soup bowls and arrange the soup bowls on a baking tray. Press 1 baguette slice cut side up into the top of each one and divide the Gruyère among them. Broil for 3 to 4 minutes, or until the Gruyère is melted and golden brown. Serve immediately.

Makes 4 very generous servings.

*For information on making and using caramelized onions and everything you ever wanted to know about searing, plus dozens of fabulous searing recipes, look for my book Seared to Perfection in stores now.

At the End of the Rainbow

It's not a pot of gold you'll find but a pot of Minestrone.


Minestrone
Printable Recipe

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
4 ounces pancetta, diced
1 large yellow onion, diced
3 to 4 cloves garlic, minced
3 quarts chicken broth
2 14 ½-ounce cans diced tomatoes
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary
8 ounces anelletti, ditalini, or macaroni
4 stalks celery, sliced
3 carrots, sliced
1 14-ounce bunch Swiss chard, preferably rainbow chard, stems and ribs diced and leaves cut into 1-inch strips
2 15-ounce cans cannellini beans, rinsed and drained
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Heat a large, heavy pot over medium heat until very hot but not smoking. Add the oil and swirl to coat the bottom of the pot. Add the pancetta and fry, tossing frequently, for 4 to 5 minutes, or until golden brown. Add the onion and sauté for 4 to 5 minutes, or until soft. Add the garlic and sauté for another 30 seconds, or until fragrant. Add the broth, tomatoes (along with their liquid), bay leaf, and rosemary and bring to a boil. Add the pasta, celery, carrots, and chard stems and ribs, return to a boil, and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 14 to 15 minutes, or until the pasta is nearly al dente. Add the chard leaves and beans and simmer for another 3 to 4 minutes, or until the chard is tender. Discard the bay leaf and season to taste with salt and pepper. Ladle into bowls and serve immediately.

Serves 6 to 8 as a main course. Vary the vegetables according to what's in season. Serve topped with a grating of Parmegiano-Reggiano and a spoonful of pesto—try Arugula Pesto in the springtime or your classic basil pesto, like the kind used in this crostata, in the summer.

Wonton Soup

Last weekend I taught a cooking class at Clark College entitled Soup Series: Chinese Favorites, and the Wonton Soup was a big hit. Students enjoyed learning how to fold wontons so much that I just had to share the lesson with you too.

But first, a little bragging…The Steaks with Chipotle Cream Sauce recipe from Seared to Perfection was featured in The Washington Post! And cooking classes are spotlighted in the latest issue of Clark College Connections, with a couple of quotes from, and pics of, yours truly (see pages 94 to 95).

Wonton Soup
Printable Recipe

4 quarts chicken broth
2 cloves garlic, crushed, plus 2 cloves, minced
3 ¼-inch slices ginger, plus ½ teaspoon grated
3 tablespoons soy sauce
½ pound ground pork
¼ pound shrimp, peeled, deveined, and minced
3 tablespoons sliced green onions
1 tablespoon cornstarch
½ teaspoon sugar
¼ teaspoon dark sesame oil
Freshly ground white pepper
About 45 wonton wrappers
1 large head napa cabbage (about 1 ½ pounds), cut into 1-inch strips
Kosher salt

Combine the broth, crushed garlic, sliced ginger, and 2 tablespoons of the soy sauce in a large, heavy pot. Bring to a boil and simmer for about 45 minutes, or until fragrant.

Meanwhile, mix together the ground pork, shrimp, minced garlic, grated ginger, green onions, 2 teaspoons of the cornstarch, sugar, sesame oil, a generous pinch of white pepper, and remaining 1 tablespoon of soy sauce in a large bowl.

Whisk together the remaining 1 teaspoon of cornstarch and 1 tablespoon of water in a small bowl. Place 1 teaspoon of the pork mixture in the center of a wonton wrapper.


Using a fingertip, lightly moisten the edges of the wrapper with the cornstarch mixture. Fold the wrapper in half over the filling, forming a triangle, and eliminating any air pockets, firmly pinch the edges together to seal.


Lightly moisten the corners of the wrapper along the long side of the triangle with the cornstarch mixture. Fold the two corners together.


And firmly pinch to seal.


Make more wontons with the remaining wrappers and filling in the same manner. As you work, arrange the wontons in a single layer on a parchment-lined baking tray.

Discard the garlic and ginger from the broth. Add the cabbage, bring to a boil, and simmer for 3 to 4 minutes, or until tender. Add the wontons and simmer gently, stirring occasionally, for another 3 to 4 minutes, or until just cooked through. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. Ladle into individual bowls and serve immediately.

Serves 6 as a main course. Keep the wrappers and wontons covered with plastic wrap as you work so that they don't dry out. Avoid getting any filling on the edges of the wonton wrappers, or they won't seal. Uncooked wontons may be frozen in a single layer on a parchment-lined baking tray and transferred to a zip-top bag when frozen solid. Wontons keep for several weeks frozen. Add them to simmering broth while still frozen—there's no need to thaw them, just increase their cooking time by a couple of minutes.

Eating Corn on the Cob

Anyone else eat corn on the cob one row of kernels at a time? Anyone? Please don't judge me because I do it that way. I can't tell you how much grief I get for it. My husband thinks it's freakish and wrong and says I look like a typewriter eating corn. He makes fun of me each and every single time corn on the cob is on the menu—it never gets old for him. The habit started in seventh grade, when I first got braces. But now I do it because I have jaw problems, and it makes my jaw muscles less sore to nibble off one row of kernels than to open wide and go at it like normal. Besides, my method is so much more neat and orderly, and I just don't like the feeling of having bits of corn stuck between my teeth. I can't be the only one with this particular quirk, can I?


Anyway, usually I avoid the issue altogether…


Corn & Poblano Chowder
Printable Recipe

2 tablespoons (¼ stick) unsalted butter
1 small yellow onion, diced
1 stalk celery, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 ½ quarts water
1 bay leaf
1 small sprig thyme
Kernels from 6 ears corn
¼ cup heavy cream
3 roasted poblanos, julienned
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Heat a large, heavy pot over medium heat until hot but not smoking. Add the butter, onion, and celery and sauté for 4 to 5 minutes, or until soft. Add the garlic and sauté for another 30 seconds, or until fragrant. Add the water, bay leaf, thyme, and half of the corn. Bring to a boil and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the flavors come together. Discard the bay leaf and thyme sprig, remove from the heat, and puree with an immersion blender until smooth. Strain through a fine mesh sieve. Return to the heat and add the cream, poblanos, and remaining half of the corn. Bring to a boil and simmer, stirring occasionally, for another 20 to 25 minutes, or until the corn kernels are tender. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Ladle into bowls and serve immediately.

Serves 4 to 6 as a first course. An absolute must for summertime, when corn is at its peak. If you don’t have an immersion blender, you can use a regular blender but remember: never fill a blender more than half way with hot liquid. This means you will need to blend the soup in batches and reheat it before serving. This is a vegetarian soup.

Greens, Glorious Greens

Springtime at the farmers market means greens. Lush, vibrant greens. Crisp greens, tender greens. Greens of every shade and hue that make you want to get into the kitchen and cook something nourishing and delicious.


Look what one bunch of kale can inspire.


Before I get to the recipe, a newsflash about my forthcoming cookbook Seared to Perfection: The Simple Art of Sealing in Flavor: Amazon is now showing the image of the cover! Doesn’t that juicy steak just make your mouth water?

White Bean & Roasted Garlic Soup with Tuscan Kale & Italian Sausage
Printable Recipe

2 heads garlic
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt
¾ pound bulk Italian sausage, crumbled
¼ cup white wine
1 quart chicken broth
2 19-ounce cans cannellini beans, rinsed and drained
1 12-ounce bunch Tuscan kale, stemmed and cut into 1-inch strips
Freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 350˚F. Cut the stem ends off the heads of garlic to expose the cloves within. Place the garlic in the center of a piece of aluminum foil, drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the oil, sprinkle with kosher salt, and seal the foil tightly. Roast for 40 to 45 minutes, or until meltingly tender and golden brown. Let cool to room temperature and peel.

Heat a large, heavy pot over medium-high heat until very hot but not smoking. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil and swirl to coat the bottom of the pot. Add the sausage and cook for 5 to 6 minutes, tossing about 3 times, until crusty and brown in spots.* Using a slotted spoon, remove the sausage to a plate. Add the wine to the pot and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes, scraping up the brown bits from the bottom of the pan with a heat-proof spatula. Add the broth, beans, and roasted garlic along with its oil, remove from the heat, and puree with an immersion blender until smooth. Return to the heat and bring to a boil. Return the sausage to the pot, add the kale, and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 10 to 12 minutes, or until the kale is tender. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Ladle into bowls and serve immediately.

Serves 4 as a main course. Using canned instead of dried beans makes this recipe quick and easy enough for a weeknight. If you have the choice between hot and sweet Italian sausage, go for hot. Tuscan kale is also known as Italian kale, cavolo nero, lacinato kale, black kale, and dinosaur kale. If you don’t have an immersion blender, you can use a regular blender. For a hearty and satisfying dinner, serve this Italian-inspired soup with plenty of crusty bread.

*Searing the sausage in this manner adds tons of flavor to the finished dish. For everything you ever wanted to know about searing, plus dozens of fabulous searing recipes, look for my book Seared to Perfection in stores in October.

Reader Request: Hearty Beef & Vegetable Soup

Recently, I received a lovely email from a reader. I’m blushing profusely because she said such nice things. Here’s what Linda, of Hamilton, New Jersey, wrote:

Your recipes are amazing…delicious…some of the best I have ever made, and I now know why after reading about you. I am looking forward to having your cookbook too.

Your soup recipes are so good! My husband and I both love the Beef, Barley & Mushroom Soup. We love it so much that it is always stocked in our freezer, and I can't remember not having a few containers always on hand. As a matter of fact, I went to the store today for the ingredients to make another pot.

Would you consider making a hearty steak-vegetable soup and sharing the recipe on your site? I have no talent for creations of my own and since finding your site have found none other that compares. I haven't made anything yet that we did not enjoy.

Thank you for considering a recipe request.

Linda, thank you so much for your kind words about my recipes and about Hungry Cravings! Comments like yours really make my day and encourage me to keep at it! And seriously, with that kind of flattering feedback, how could I not honor your recipe request?

A hearty, comforting meat and veggie soup usually includes peas, carrots, celery, onions, and potatoes.


But the start of spring and the first farmers market of the season inspired me…I chose to use leeks instead of onions.


I also added some cauliflower, since it’s one of my favorites.


This one’s for you, Linda. Enjoy!


Hearty Beef & Vegetable Soup
Printable Recipe

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 ½ pounds beef chuck, cut into 1-inch cubes
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
3 to 4 cloves garlic, minced
¼ cup all-purpose flour
½ cup red wine
3 quarts beef broth
1 14 ½-ounce can diced tomatoes
2 bay leaves
1 sprig thyme
1 sprig Italian parsley
4 medium red potatoes
2 stalks celery, sliced
2 carrots, sliced
2 leeks, pale parts only, sliced
12 ounces cauliflower florets
1 cup shelled English peas
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Heat a large, heavy pot over high heat until very hot but not smoking. Add the oil and swirl to coat the bottom of the pot. Add half of the beef and cook for 7 to 8 minutes, tossing about 3 times, until crusty and brown in spots.* Using a slotted spoon, remove the beef to a plate. Sear the remaining beef in the same manner and set aside. Reduce the heat to low, add the butter and garlic, and sauté for 1 to 2 minutes, or until fragrant. Stir in the flour. Add the wine and simmer, stirring, for a minute or so. Stir in the broth, return the beef to the pot, and add the tomatoes (along with their liquid), bay leaves, thyme, and parsley. Bring to a boil and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 50 to 55 minutes, or until the beef is nearly tender. Meanwhile, cut the potatoes into ¾-inch cubes. Add the potatoes, celery, carrots, leeks, and cauliflower to the pot, return to a boil, and simmer for another 15 to 20 minutes, or until the potatoes are cooked through and the vegetables are tender. Add the peas and simmer 4 to 5 minutes more, or until they are tender. Remove from the heat, discard the bay leaf, thyme sprig, and parsley sprig, and skim off any fat from the surface of the soup. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Ladle into bowls and serve immediately.

Serves 6 to 8 as a main course. Leeks tend to be very dirty, so rinse them thoroughly after you slice them. Vary the vegetables as you like—try turnips, parsnips, pearl onions, cabbage, or whatever else may be in season. Use thawed frozen peas if fresh peas are unavailable.

*Searing the beef in this manner adds tons of flavor to the finished dish. For everything you ever wanted to know about searing, plus dozens of fabulous searing recipes, look for my book Seared to Perfection in stores in the fall of 2010.

Homemade Takeout

Like just about everyone else, we’ve cut back on eating out. But we still have to get our Chinese food fix somehow. Last night we satisfied our cravings with Lapchong & Shiitake Fried Rice and this Hot & Sour Soup.


Hot & Sour Soup
Printable Recipe

1 ounce dried wood ear mushrooms
½ ounce dried lily buds
1 tablespoon canola oil
6 ounces pork loin, cut into 2×¼×¼-inch strips
3 quarts chicken broth
1 8-ounce can bamboo shoot strips, drained
1 14-ounce package firm tofu, cut into 2×¼×¼-inch strips
¼ cup soy sauce
2 large eggs
¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon cornstarch
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons rice vinegar
1 ½ to 2 teaspoons freshly ground white pepper
¾ teaspoon dark sesame oil
Kosher salt
½ cup sliced green onions

Combine the wood ears and 2 cups hot water in a small bowl and let soak for about 15 minutes, or until rehydrated and pliable. Remove the woods ears to a cutting board and julienne.

Combine the lily buds and ½ cup hot water in a small bowl and let soak for about 15 minutes, or until rehydrated and pliable. Drain the lily buds and shred lengthwise.

Heat a large, heavy pot over medium-high heat until very hot but not smoking. Add the canola oil and swirl to coat the bottom of the pot. Add the pork and stir-fry for 1 to 2 minutes, or until golden brown. Add the broth, bamboo shoots, tofu, soy sauce, wood ears, and lily buds. Bring to a boil and simmer, stirring occasionally, for about 15 minutes, or until the flavors come together. Lightly beat the eggs in a small bowl. Whisk together the cornstarch and ¼ cup water in another small bowl. Stir the cornstarch mixture into the soup and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 to 2 minutes, or until it thickens and comes back to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and continue stirring slowly while adding the eggs in a thin stream. Stir in the rice vinegar, white pepper, and sesame oil and season to taste with salt. Ladle into individual bowls, top with plenty of green onions, and serve immediately.

Serves 10 to 12 as a first course. You can use more or less rice vinegar and white pepper to your taste. Dried wood ear mushrooms and dried lily buds, which are also known as golden needles, are available at Asian markets.

The Day After Thanksgiving

Did you have a happy and filling Thanksgiving? I know I did. After two-and-a-half days of frenzied cooking, one over-indulgent, seam-splitting meal, and a nearly insurmountable pile of dishes, I’m beat but content. I’m not cooking today, but I am looking forward to some very tasty leftovers…


Butternut Squash Soup with Sage Pesto
Printable Recipe

1 2 ½-pound butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into ¾-inch cubes
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 small yellow onion, diced
1 stalk celery, diced
2 tablespoons white wine
1 ½ quarts water
1 bay leaf
1 sprig thyme
1 sprig Italian parsley
2 tablespoons heavy cream
¼ cup fresh sage leaves
1 to 2 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons pine nuts
2 tablespoons grated Parmegiano-Reggiano
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 350˚F. Toss together the butternut squash and 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large bowl. Spread on a baking tray and roast for about 45 to 50 minutes, or until tender.

Heat a large, heavy pot over medium heat until hot but not smoking. Add 2 tablespoons of the oil and swirl to coat the bottom of the pot. Add the onion and celery and sauté for 8 to 9 minutes, or until soft. Add the wine and simmer for a minute or so, scraping up the brown bits from the bottom of the pan with a heat-proof spatula. Add the butternut squash, water, bay leaf, thyme, parsley, and cream and bring to a boil. Simmer for about 15 minutes, or until the flavors come together.

Meanwhile, combine the sage, garlic, pine nuts, Parmegiano, and the remaining ¼ cup of oil in a food processor and pulse until smooth.

Discard the bay leaf, thyme sprig, and parsley sprig from the soup, remove from the heat, and puree with an immersion blender until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Ladle into bowls, drizzle with the pesto, and serve immediately.

Serves 6 as a first course. If you don’t have an immersion blender, you can use a regular blender but remember: never fill a blender more than half way with hot liquid. This means you will need to blend the soup in batches and reheat it before serving. Fall flavors dance in a bowl of soup. Sage pesto with a generous amount of olive oil floats as a brilliant emerald garnish on the surface of the soup and adds needed richness, elevating the simple pottage to delicious heights. Pass the remaining pesto at the table for diners to stir into their soup as they desire. Leftover sage pesto, should there be any, would be great on turkey sandwiches. This is a vegetarian soup.

Gloating

Is it wrong to gloat when you’ve managed to find a rare and desirable raw ingredient? Well, as soon as we were back in cell phone range from our mushroom hunt, I called my family in Texas to let them know that we had found four bagsful of chanterelles.


“I hate you,” was my mother’s reply. (In case you’re wondering, this isn’t the first time she’s become nasty over foodstuffs. At least she didn’t threaten to sever all contact this time.) And then she retaliated, “I’m poaching lobster.” Who knew that the conversation would end with me being just as jealous as they were? Serves me right.


Cream of Chanterelle Soup with Wild Rice
Printable Recipe

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 yellow onion, diced
2 stalks celery, diced
2 carrots, diced
1 ¾ pounds chanterelles, torn into bite-size pieces
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon tomato paste
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
¼ cup white wine
1 bay leaf
1 sprig thyme
1 sprig Italian parsley
¼ cup heavy cream
¾ cup wild rice
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Heat a large, heavy pot over medium heat until hot but not smoking. Add the oil and swirl to coat the bottom of the pot. Add the onion, celery, and carrots and sauté for 10 to 12 minutes, or until soft. Increase the heat to high, add the chanterelles, and sauté for another 10 to 12 minutes, or until soft. Add the garlic and tomato paste and sauté 1 to 2 minutes more, or until fragrant. Stir in the flour. Add the wine and simmer, stirring, for a minute or so. Add the bay leaf, thyme, parsley, cream, and 2 ½ quarts water. Bring to a boil and simmer, stirring occasionally, for about an hour, or until the flavors come together.

Meanwhile, place the wild rice into a medium pot and add enough water to cover by several inches. Add several large pinches of salt. Bring to a boil and simmer for about 45 minutes, or until tender. Drain.

Discard the bay leaf, thyme sprig, and parsley sprig from the soup, remove from the heat, and puree with an immersion blender until smooth. Stir in the wild rice and season to taste with salt and pepper. Ladle into bowls and serve immediately.

Serves 6 as a main course. This is a vegetarian soup. If you don’t have an immersion blender, you can use a regular blender but remember: never fill a blender more than half way with hot liquid. This means you will need to blend the soup in batches and reheat it before serving.

Cook's Block

Everybody knows what writer’s block is, but have you ever heard of cook’s block? This debilitating condition is more common than most would suspect. Symptoms range from a lack of desire to cook or bake to weariness at the thought of dinner. Appetite can disappear. People suffering from particularly acute cases have been known to turn to takeout. Cook’s block can happen to the best of us from time to time, and it strikes without warning.

I have my periods of inspiration and intense creativity, but this is not one of them. I’ve been overcome by cook’s block *sigh*. I try to focus—what to cook today? But it’s futile, there’s just a blank where the ideas used to be. Thank goodness the pendulum always swings. Eventually.

In the meantime, we still have to eat. Fall says it’s time for soup. And the leftover basmati rice in the fridge tells me curried lentils. I listen.


Curried Lentil Soup
Printable Recipe

2 tablespoons canola oil
¼ cup minced garlic
¼ cup minced ginger
2 to 3 jalapenos, seeded and minced
2 stalks celery, diced
2 carrots, diced
2 tablespoons curry powder
2 tablespoons ground cumin
2 bay leaves
4 quarts water
1 ¼ pounds red lentils, picked over
Juice of 2 limes
Kosher salt
½ cup minced cilantro

Heat a large, heavy pot over medium-high heat until very hot but not smoking. Add the oil and swirl to coat the bottom of the pot. Add the garlic, ginger, and jalapenos and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes, or until soft. Add the celery and carrot and sauté for another 2 to 3 minutes, or until soft. Add the curry powder, cumin, and bay leaves and sauté 1 to 2 minutes more, or until fragrant. Add the water and lentils, bring to a boil, and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 40 to 45 minutes, or until the lentils fall apart. Discard the bay leaves, stir in the lime juice, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Ladle into individual bowls, top with plenty of cilantro, and serve immediately.

Serves 8. A bowlful of this nourishing vegetarian soup with its aromatic spices will warm you on the coldest of days. I sometimes serve it over cooked basmati rice.

In the Mood

Do you ever have one of those days when you don’t feel like making the thing you had planned for dinner? Or you’re just not hungry for it? Sure, fish chowder sounded good when you did your weekly meal planning and grocery shopping last Sunday. But not anymore—today, the very thought of seafood ruins your appetite. I have one of those days a lot. It drives my husband nuts, but how in the world am I supposed to guess what I’ll be in the mood for at some future date? If only I had a crystal ball. So what to do? Go out? No, that would blow the budget. And, in any case, all I know is what I’m not hungry for, not what I actually do want to eat. Then there’s the inevitable exchange…

Me: “What do you feel like having?”

Husband: “I don’t know, what do you feel like having?”

Me: Sigh. “I don’t know, I asked you first.”

Husband: “I don’t know. Fish chowder?” Belly grumbles.

And on and on.

Me, finally: “I know, there’s broccoli and cheddar.” There’s always broccoli and cheddar in the fridge, and there’s one thing I’m always, always in the mood for—Broccoli-Cheese Soup.


Broccoli-Cheese Soup
Printable Recipe

4 ounces (1 stick) unsalted butter
1 yellow onion, diced
3 cloves garlic, minced
½ cup all-purpose flour
2 quarts chicken broth
1 ¼ pounds broccoli, stalks and florets separated and chopped
½ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1 to 2 teaspoons Tabasco sauce
1 bay leaf
¼ teaspoon powdered mustard
Generous pinch cayenne pepper
8 ounces shredded sharp cheddar
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Heat a large, heavy pot over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking. Add the butter and onion and sauté for 4 to 5 minutes, or until soft. Add the garlic and sauté for another 30 seconds, or until fragrant. Stir in the flour. Stir in the broth and add the broccoli stalks, Worcestershire, Tabasco, bay leaf, mustard, and cayenne. Bring to a boil and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 16 to 18 minutes, or until the stalks are tender. Discard the bay leaf, remove from the heat, and puree with an immersion blender until smooth. Return to the heat and add the broccoli florets. Bring to a boil and simmer, stirring occasionally, for another 7 to 8 minutes, or until the florets are tender. Reduce the heat to low, stir in the cheddar, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Ladle into bowls and serve immediately.

Serves 6. Feel free to substitute vegetable broth or water if you prefer a vegetarian soup. If you don’t have an immersion blender, you can use a regular blender but remember: never fill a blender more than half way with hot liquid. This means you will need to blend the soup in batches and reheat it before adding the broccoli florets. Do not boil the soup once the cheddar has been added, or it will have a grainy texture.

Black Bean Soup

It sure doesn’t feel like spring’s right around the corner. This morning, there was snow, and this afternoon, a hail storm. This calls for more soup!


Black Bean Soup
Printable Recipe

1 pound black beans, picked over and rinsed
¼ cup canola oil
1 large yellow onion, diced
6 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons pure chile powder
1 teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon Mexican oregano
Generous pinch cayenne pepper
3 quarts chicken broth
½ cup sour cream
¼ cup milk
1 ripe Hass avocado
Juice of 1 lime
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup minced cilantro

Place the beans into a large bowl and add enough water to cover by several inches. Cover with plastic wrap and let soak overnight at room temperature.

Drain the beans. Heat a large, heavy pot over medium heat until very hot but not smoking. Add the oil and swirl to coat the bottom of the pot. Add the onion and sauté for 4 to 5 minutes, or until soft. Add the garlic and sauté for another 30 seconds, or until fragrant. Stir in the chile powder, cumin, Mexican oregano, and cayenne. Add the broth and beans. Bring to a boil and simmer, stirring occasionally, for about an hour and 15 minutes, or until the beans are cooked through.

Meanwhile, whisk together the sour cream and milk in a small bowl. Halve, pit, peel, and dice the avocado. Remove the soup from the heat and puree with an immersion blender until smooth. Stir in the lime juice and season to taste with salt and pepper. Ladle into individual bowls, top with plenty of avocado and cilantro, and drizzle with the sour cream mixture. Serve immediately.

Serves 8. If you don’t have an immersion blender, you can use a regular blender but remember: never fill a blender more than half way with hot liquid. This means you will need to blend the soup in batches and reheat it before serving. This soup is also delicious topped with crumbled cotija cheese. For a simple yet delicious meal, serve with Mexican Rice, either on the side or stirred right in. Feel free to substitute vegetable broth or water if you prefer a vegetarian soup. Dried Mexican oregano, which has a unique floral character, can be found at some gourmet grocers and (usually for less than a dollar) at any Mexican market. If you can’t find it, just omit it from the recipe; don’t substitute common oregano.

The Button Mushroom

Wild mushrooms get all the glory. Sure, they’re exotic, rare, and colorful, and they look sexy on a menu. But the humble button mushroom deserves a little credit too.

Cream of Mushroom Soup
Printable Recipe

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 yellow onion, diced
2 stalks celery, diced
1 carrot, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 ½ pounds button mushrooms, sliced
¼ cup all-purpose flour
¼ cup white wine
1 ½ quarts chicken broth
1 bay leaf
1 sprig thyme
¼ cup heavy cream
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Heat a large, heavy pot over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking. Add the oil and butter and swirl to coat the bottom of the pot. Add the onion and sauté for 4 to 5 minutes, or until soft. Add the celery and carrot and sauté for 5 to 6 minutes, or until soft. Add the mushrooms and sauté for another 5 to 6 minutes, or until soft. Add the garlic and sauté 1 to 2 minutes more, or until fragrant. Stir in the flour. Add the wine and simmer, stirring, for a minute or so. Add the broth, bay leaf, thyme, and cream. Bring to a boil and simmer, stirring occasionally, for about half an hour, or until the flavors come together. Discard the bay leaf and thyme sprig, remove from the heat, and puree with an immersion blender until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper, ladle into bowls, and serve immediately.

Serves 6. If you don’t have an immersion blender, you can use a regular blender but remember: never fill a blender more than half way with hot liquid. This means you will need to blend the soup in batches and reheat it before serving. The soup is intensely flavorful and delicious as is, but gild the lily by serving it topped with a drizzle of truffle oil.

I Miss

There are certain things I miss about living in Texas. I miss the Texas peaches, and I miss the gulf shrimp. I miss the Mexican food and the abundance of cheap, authentic taquerias. I missed the Texas barbeque so bad that I had to get a smoker of my very own and learn to make it myself. And I miss being a stone’s throw away from Louisiana.


Shrimp & Andouille Gumbo with Okra
Printable Recipe

2 pounds small shrimp (41/50 count)
2 cups canola oil
2 cups all-purpose flour
3 yellow onions, diced
3 green bell peppers, diced
5 stalks celery, diced
8 to 10 cloves garlic, minced
Kosher salt
3 bay leaves
1 tablespoon dried thyme leaves
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 tablespoon paprika
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¾ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
¾ teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 quarts chicken broth
1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes, drained
3 pounds andouille, sliced
1 1-pound bag frozen cut okra, thawed
Cooked long grain white rice, for serving
Sliced green onions, for serving

Peel and devein the shrimp, reserving the shells. Combine the shrimp shells and 3 quarts of water in a large, heavy pot. Bring to a boil and simmer for 10 to 12 minutes, or until flavorful. Let cool and strain through a fine mesh sieve.

Combine the oil and flour in a very large, heavy pot. Cook over medium-high heat, whisking constantly, for 14 to 16 minutes, or until chocolate brown.


Add the onions, bell peppers, celery, garlic, and a generous pinch of salt and cook, stirring frequently, for 5 to 6 minutes, or until soft. Stir in the bay leaves, thyme, oregano, paprika, pepper, white pepper, and cayenne. Stir in the shrimp broth and chicken broth and add the tomatoes, andouille, and shrimp. Bring to a boil and simmer for about an hour, or until the flavors come together. Add the okra and simmer another 14 to 16 minutes, or until the okra is tender. Remove from the heat, discard the bay leaves, and skim off any fat from the surface of the gumbo. Season to taste with salt. To serve, spoon some of the rice into the center of each bowl, ladle the gumbo over the rice, and sprinkle with the green onions.

Serves an army of about 20 as a main course. The mixture of oil and flour, known as roux, thickens the gumbo. When cooked to a dark chocolate-brown color, it also adds a deep, toasty flavor. Whisk the roux constantly to avoid scorching it, but be careful as you do because it will be very hot. You can use fresh okra if it’s in season, but sauté it briefly before adding it to the gumbo. Also try adding crawfish, crabmeat, or chicken. You will need a 10-quart or larger pot for this recipe. The recipe may be cut in half, but if you’re going to the effort of making gumbo, why not make a big batch? Like all soups and stews, it actually tastes better the day after it’s made, and it freezes beautifully.

Southwestern Flavor

I love the food of the American Southwest, and even if a dish isn’t Southwestern, I can make it taste like it is. Because everything tastes better with chiles. And chorizo.


Split Pea & Chorizo Soup
Printable Recipe

3 tablespoons canola oil
½ pound bulk Mexican chorizo, crumbled
1 large yellow onion, diced
2 stalks celery, diced
1 carrot, diced
3 to 4 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon pure chile powder
1 teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon Mexican oregano
Generous pinch cayenne pepper
½ cup beer, preferably a Mexican ale
3 quarts chicken broth
1 4-ounce can diced green chiles
2 ½ cups split peas, picked over
1 bay leaf
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Heat a large, heavy pot over medium-high heat until very hot but not smoking. Add the oil and swirl to coat the bottom of the pot. Add the chorizo and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, tossing about 2 times, until crusty and brown in spots.*


Reduce the heat to medium, add the onion, and sauté for 4 to 5 minutes, or until soft. Add the celery and carrot and sauté for another 3 to 4 minutes, or until soft. Add the garlic, chile powder, cumin, Mexican oregano, and cayenne and sauté 1 to 2 minutes more, or until fragrant. Add the beer and simmer for a minute or so, scraping up the brown bits from the bottom of the pan with a heat-proof spatula. Add the broth, green chiles, split peas, and bay leaf. Bring to a boil and simmer, stirring occasionally, for about 2 hours, or until the split peas fall apart. Remove from the heat, discard the bay leaf, and skim off any fat from the surface of the soup. Stir in the lime juice and season to taste with salt and pepper. Ladle into bowls and serve immediately.

Serves 6 as a main course. If you can’t find bulk chorizo sausage, get some links of chorizo and remove the casings. Dried Mexican oregano, which has a unique floral character, can be found at some gourmet grocers and (usually for less than a dollar) at any Mexican market. If you can’t find it, just omit it from the recipe; don’t substitute common oregano.


*Searing the chorizo in this manner adds tons of flavor to the finished dish. For everything you ever wanted to know about searing, plus dozens of fabulous searing recipes, look for my book Seared to Perfection in stores in the fall of 2010.

Special Request

It’s not often that my husband asks me to make something specific for dinner. Most of the time when I ask him what he wants he just shrugs and says, “I dunno, you’re the chef.” Either that, or he suggests burgers. Needless to say, I’ve spoiled him, and the meal planning is pretty much all on me. But the other day, he made a special request for my Beef, Barley & Mushroom Soup.


Beef, Barley & Mushroom Soup it is!

Beef, Barley & Mushroom Soup
Printable Recipe

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 ½ pounds beef chuck, cut into ¾-inch cubes
1 large yellow onion, diced
2 stalks celery, diced
1 carrot, diced
3 to 4 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 pound button mushrooms, sliced
½ cup red wine
3 quarts beef broth
1 ½ cups pearled barley
1 bay leaf
1 sprig thyme
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon minced Italian parsley

Heat a large, heavy pot over high heat until very hot but not smoking. Add the oil and swirl to coat the bottom of the pot. Add half of the beef and cook for 6 to 7 minutes, tossing about 2 times, until crusty and brown in spots.* Using a slotted spoon, remove the beef to a plate. Sear the remaining beef in the same manner and set aside. Reduce the heat to medium, add the onion, and sauté for 5 to 6 minutes, or until soft. Add the celery and carrot and sauté for 5 to 6 minutes, or until soft. Add the garlic and tomato paste and sauté for another 1 to 2 minutes, or until fragrant. Add the mushrooms and sauté 6 to 7 minutes more, or until soft. Add the wine and simmer for a minute or so, scraping up the brown bits from the bottom of the pot with a heat-proof spatula. Return the beef to the pot and add the broth, barley, bay leaf, and thyme. Bring to a boil and simmer for 50 to 55 minutes, or until the beef and barley are both tender. Remove from the heat, discard the bay leaf and thyme sprig, and skim off any fat from the surface of the soup. Season to taste with salt and pepper and stir in the parsley. Ladle into bowls and serve immediately.

Serves 6 to 8 as a main course. This is hearty, satisfying comfort food, and perfect for the coldest of days. The recipe makes a lot, but it’s even better the second day.

*Searing the beef in this manner adds tons of flavor to the finished dish. For everything you ever wanted to know about searing, plus dozens of fabulous searing recipes, look for my book Seared to Perfection in stores in the fall of 2010.

Tomatoes the Rest of the Year

Fall’s here, and the rain has set in. I mourn the passing of tomato season. I’ve already stocked up on Pomì tomatoes.


Two cases to get me through to next summer. So sweet, like a ray of sunshine, they’re the next best thing to vine-ripened, and certainly better than anything in a can.

Easiest Cream of Tomato Soup with Orzo
Printable Recipe

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
4 cloves garlic, minced
53 ounces strained tomatoes, preferably Pomì brand
1 quart water
½ cup heavy cream
¾ cup orzo
¼ cup chiffonaded fresh basil
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Grated Parmegiano-Reggiano, for serving

Heat a large, heavy pot over medium heat until very hot but not smoking. Add the oil and swirl to coat the bottom of the pot. Add the garlic and sauté for about a minute, or until fragrant. Add the tomatoes, water, and cream and bring to a boil. Add the orzo and basil and simmer, stirring frequently, for about half an hour, or until the orzo is al dente. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Ladle into individual bowls, top with plenty of Parmegiano, and serve immediately.

Serves 6. Perfect with salad and garlic bread or grilled cheese sandwiches. If you prefer soup with a coarser texture, substitute Pomì Chopped Tomatoes for half of the strained tomatoes. You will need 2 26.455-ounce boxes of Pomì tomatoes for this soup. They’re available at most fine grocery stores.

Soup Weather

August has just begun, but, here in the Pacific Northwest, it already seems like fall’s creeping in. It’s been cool and cloudy and a little rainy out, and I’m in the mood for soup.


Leek & Potato Soup
Printable Recipe

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
5 leeks, pale parts only, cut in half lengthwise and sliced
1 yellow onion, diced
3 ½ quarts chicken broth
7 medium Russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 5/8-inch cubes
1 sprig thyme
1 cup heavy cream
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Heat a large, heavy pot over medium heat until hot but not smoking. Add the oil and butter and swirl to coat the bottom of the pot. Add the leeks and onion and sauté for about 12 minutes, or until soft.


Add the broth, potatoes, and thyme and bring to a boil. Simmer for about half an hour, or until the potatoes are cooked through. Discard the thyme sprig and stir in the cream. Remove from the heat and puree with an immersion blender until smooth.


Season to taste with salt and pepper, ladle into bowls, and serve immediately.

Makes a lot, enough to serve about 10 to 12, which is good because you’ll want leftovers. Leeks tend to be very dirty, so rinse them thoroughly after you chop them. If you don’t have an immersion blender, you can use a regular blender but remember: never fill a blender more than half way with hot liquid. This means you will need to blend the soup in batches and reheat it before serving. For a perfectly smooth texture, strain the pureed soup through a fine mesh sieve. Garnish with minced fresh chives or a few drops of truffle oil. If it’s still summer where you live, know that I’m jealous and serve it chilled. Leek & Potato Soup served chilled is commonly known as vichyssoise.

Click here for Vichyssoise Shooters, a fun and fancy way to serve Leek & Potato Soup.